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crossing australia
Through alice springs

18th October 2015 - 29th October 2015

Taking off from Darwin, we set to Kakadu National Park, World Heritage Park and Aboriginal Land. Visiting Jabiru, Ubirr, Anbangbang, Nourlangie and Maguk. Re-fuelling at Katherine, we caught the Discovery Trail (passed Mataranka, Daly Waters, Tennant Creek, Devil's Marbles), and onto the Red Centre Way (West MacDonnell Ranges, King's Canyon, Uluru and Kata-Tjuta). Catching the Explorer's Way, we drove past Coober Pedy, Port Augusta, Port Pirie, and the Wine Region of Clare Valley, finally ending our trip in Adelaide and being offered a place to sleep by a couple we met in Mount Charlton.


Northern Territory

Abbreviated NT.
Borders West Australia, South Australia and Queensland. Darwin being the Capital of NT. Estimated population of 243,700.


South Australia

Abbreviated SA.
​Fourth-largest of Australia's states and territories. Borders with all of the other mainland states. Adelaide being the Capital SA. Estimated population of 1.7million.


Kakadu National Park
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An enormous, biodiverse nature preserve in Australia’s Northern Territory. With terrain encompassing wetlands, rivers and sandstone escarpments, it’s home to some 2,000 plant species and wildlife from saltwater crocodiles and Flatback turtles to hundreds of bird species. Aboriginal rock-art paintings dating to prehistoric times can be viewed at sites such as Nourlangie, Nanguluwur and Ubirr.

Ubirr
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Bardedjilidji Trek PDF - meaning walkway or pathway in Aboriginal, also refers to the roots of waterlilies growing in freshwater swamps and billabongs. 
2.5km walk passing sandstone outliers, monsoon vine forest, paperbark woodland and wetlands area. Sandstone rock formations over 1500milion years, pandanus trees, sandstones figs, strychnine trees, a monsoon forest corridor, an Aboriginal hunters cave, more layered sandstone, termite mounds, owenia trees, billabong and the East Alligator River.
Ubirr Art Trek – 1km Circuit walk viewing Aboriginal Arts, Mabuyu, Ancestral Art (5,000year old) drawn by red ochre and animal blood, Thylacine (known as the Tasmania Tiger) which is extinct 2000-3000 years ago, Rainbow Serpent Boardwalk, Crosshatching Gallery and the Nomarrkan Sisters. Finishing off with Nadab Lookout, overlooking Kakadu.

Nourlangie
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or Burrunggui (Boor-oon-goy), as it is known to the Gun-djeihmi speakers for this place. Name for the higher parts of Nourlangie.
Nourlangie Trek – 1.5km circuit walk, home to the Aboriginal people through the many art sites (such as drawings of the lightning man), and rock shelters, gallery and Gunwarddehwarde Lookout which shows the connection between the people and their land.

Anbangbang
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(Arn-barng-barng). Lower part of Nourlangie
Nawurlandja Lookout – 400m steep uphill to view Nourlangie.
Anbangbang Billabong Walk – 2.5km Circuit walk around the Billabong (we only walked 250m to view the billabong as it was dry and no birds in sight).

Kings Canyon
6.5km Rim Walk – Trek along the Canyon, divert to Cotterhills Lookout, and Garden of Eden.
This ancient formation of tall red rock faces that soar above dense palm forests is an important conservation area and refuge for more than 600 species of native plants and animals, many unique to the area.
The soaring sandstone walls of Kings Canyon were formed when small cracks eroded over millions of years. Derived from an Aboriginal word referring to the umbrella bush that thrives here, the Luritja Aboriginal people have called the Watarrka National Park area home for more than 20,000 years.

Uluru
Uluru, or Ayers Rock, is a massive sandstone monolith in the heart of the Northern Territory’s Red Centre desert,  It’s sacred to indigenous Australians and believed to be about 700 million years old.  Walk around the base will teach you about Anangu, the way they taught, hunted, and moved to Uluru, how women cooked, their traditions and beliefs, 10,000 year old drawings and their significance , where women nursed, where they cooked, and Kantju Gorge.

Kata-Tjuta
Kata Tjuta, sometimes written Tjuṯa, and also known as Mount Olga, are a group of large domed rock formations or bornhardts. The highest point, Mount Olga, is 1,066 m (3,497 ft) above sea level, or approximately 546 m (1,791 ft) above the surrounding plain (198 m (650 ft) higher than Uluru).

Dingo Fence
Built in 1880 (finished after 5years), it is the world's longest fence (5,614km) to keep dingoes out from South-East Australia. 

Coober Pedy
Opal Capital Mining Town. Population 3,500. 80% of town is situated underground.


 

Points of Interest: 
Darwin – Pamerston – Arnhem Highway

Kakadu National Park
Information Board – Kakadu Information Centre – Bowali – Bowali Visitor Centre - Jabiru – Lake Jabiru – Rest Area Jabiru – Ubirr - Bardedjilidji Trek - Merl Boat Ramp – Mabuyu – Main Art Gallery – Crosshatching Gallery – Namarrkan Sisters – Rainbow Serpent – Nadab Lookout - Anbangbang - Nawurlandja Lookout - Anbangbang Billabong – Nourlangie – Anbangbang Shelter – Incline Gallery – Anbangbang Gallery - Gunwarddehwarde Lookout - Warradjan Aboriginal Culture – Maguk Waterfall - Gunlom Falls - Kakadu Highway/#21

Pine Creek – Katherine - Lockheed Park

Discovery Trail
Mataranka - Gorrie Airstrip Rest Area - Daly Waters – Dunmarra – Elliot - Tennant Creek - Peko Park - Karlwekarlwe/Devils Marbles - Stuart Highway - Wycliffe Well - Ti Tree - Tropic of Capricorn - Alice Springs - Telegraph Station

Red Centre Way
Point Howard Lookout - West MacDonnell Ranges - Namatjira Drive - Ellery Creek Big Hole - Serpentine Gorge - Ochre Pits - Glen Helen - Tyler Pass Lookout - Gosses Bluff - Morris Pass Lookout - Watarrka National Park - Kings Canyon - Rim Walk - Cotterhills Lookout - Garden of Eden - Vegemite Tree - Lasseter Highway - Curtin Springs – Yulara - Uluru National Park - Uluru Sunset Lookout – Yulura Rest Area - Talinguru Nyakunytjaku Uluru (Sunrise Viewing Area) - Cultural Centre - Uluru Mala Carpark – Ayers Rock - Kantju Gorge – Kata-Tjuta – Lookout - Picnic Area - Kernot Range Rest Area - Mount Ebenezer – Erldunda - Stuart Highway

Explorer's Way
Kulgera Roadhouse - Outback South Australia - Marla Travellers Rest - Dingo Fence – Breakaways - Stuart Ranges - Coober Pedy - Hutchison Memorial – Maralinga – Cooper Pedy Info Centre - Catacomb Church - Faye's Underground Historic Home - Revival Fellowship - St.Peter & Paul's Catholic Church - Dump Point - BonBon Rest Area - Glendambo Roadhouse - Lake Gairdner - Port Augusta - Foreshore Beach - Mambray Creek Rest Area - Port Wakefield Road/A1 - Spencer Gulf - Port Pirie - Info Centre – Clare Valley – Watervale – Taree – Gawler - Pioneer Park – Adelaide

Bonython Park - West Terrace – Emerson – Noarlunga Downs

Paid Accomodation:
Devils Marbles - $3.30/person Honesty Box

Discovery Trail/Red Centre/Explorer's Way Fuel Stops:
0km - Fuel #1 Katherine $97.15 ($1.363/ltr)
276km – Fuel #2 Daly Waters ($62.65) ($1.619/ltr)
679km – Fuel #3 Tennant Creek ($96.85) ($1.640/ltr)
998km – Fuel #4 Ti Tree Roadhouse ($50.00) ($1.920/ltr)
1,205km – Fuel #5 Alice Springs ($77.95) (1.469/ltr)
1,348km – Fuel #6 Glen Helen ($48.95) ($2.101/ltr)
1,801km - Fuel #7 Curtin Springs ($50.00) ($1.96/ltr)
2,279km - Fuel #8 Mount Ebenezer ($50.00) ($1.891/ltr)
2,410km – Fuel #9 Kulgera Roadhouse ($50.05) ($1.980/ltr)
2,591km – Fuel #10 Marla Travellers Rest ($88.55) ($1.529/ltr)
2,890km – Fuel #11 Coober Pedy ($97.20) ($1.469/ltr)
3,144km – Fuel #12 Glendambo Roadhouse ($51.12) ($1.559/ltr)
3,452km – Fuel #13 Port Augusta ($60.25) ($1.329)

Bars/Restaurants:
John's Pizza Restaurant

Shops/Fast-Food:
Maccas – Repco – Woolworths – Jabiru Supermarket – Foodland - Ti Tree Roadhouse – IGA - Kulgera Roadhouse - Glendambo Roadhouse – Laundromat – MyCarWash – KFC - Coles Express - Service SA - BWS

Events/Attractions:
Kakadu Information Centre – (no information available)  Kakadu passes at $25/person for valid for 14days.
Bowali Visitor Centre – Also Top End and Kakadu Exhibition. Fresh cold water fountain available. Free wifi, Plugs, shade, tables and fans. Aboriginal art and exhibition, along with a free screening of (at the time) – Kakadu (ABC TV). Daily from 8am till 5pm. Kakadu Hwy, Jabiru NT 0886, Australia +61 8 8938 1121.
Kakadu Bird Week – Leaflet - 14-21 October 2015. Free tours and events with bird experts. Tim Dolby, an Australian bird-watcher.
Warradjan Aboriginal Culture – website – Displays artefacts which relate stories and traditional ways. Daily from 9am till 5:30pm.
Uluru-Kata Tjuta Cultural Centre – website – Daily 7.00 am - 6.00 pm. Free culture or nature presentations: 10.00 am Uluru NT, Australia +61 8 8956 3138
30th Anniversary Handaback – 30Years since the land of Uluru was given back to Aboriginal land-owners. An event held on 25th October at the Sunset area (Talinguru Nyakunytjaku) with provided free lunch, free event mug, Anangu Aboriginal dancing and singing along with a tribe from the Kimberleys, local arts, speeches and country music talent. Free shuttle bus provided.
Faye's Underground Historic Home – facebook – Dugouts as locals call them. The history of the home and how it was built underground, dug out by hand by 3 women over 10years in the early 1960s. It was built underground to protect from the cold in winter and warm weather in summer. $5 Entrance Fee. Old Water Tank Road Coober Pedy, SA +61 8 8672 5029

Fun Fact:
Garranga'rreli - Rainbow Serpent who travelled through Ubirr in human form and painted images of herself on rock to remind people of her presense.

Anbangbang - In the creation era, spirit beings travelled over the landscape creating the landforms and features. This is a story about a place on Nawurlandja called Badbong Bawardedjobgeng (bud-bong barwaddy-jobgeng), the place where the wallaby cut the rock. Two badbong (short-eared rock wallabies), one male and one female, travelled through the area in the creation era. They moved from the northeast and up into the rocks at Nawurlandja cutting two crevices in the rock – the large one by the male and the smaller one by the female. They travelled together through the woodlands forming the creek which flows from Nawurlandja then went north parting the trees to form Anbangbang Billabong.


Warradjan – Pig Nosed Turtle
Almangiyi – Long-Neck Turtle
Marrawuddi – White-Bellied Sea-Eagle
Marribanggag - Rock Termites
Ngalarrangailarra - Short-Beaked Echidna
Bonjman – Large Rock Rat
Galarringengi – Flying Fox
Barrk – Black Wallaroo
Guilododo – Chest-nut Quilled Roc-Pidgeon
Balanda – Non Aboriginal People

Termite Moulds – People enjoy dressing them up!

Wycliffe Well – UFO Centre of Australia

 

Discovery Trail
Day #1
20-10-2015
Day #2
21-10-2015
Day #3
22-10-2015
Red Centre Way
Day #3
22-10-2015
Day #4
23-10-2015
Day #6
25-10-2015
Day #5
24-10-2015
Day #7
26-10-2015
Discovery Trail
Day #7
26-10-2015
Day #8
27-10-2015
Day #9
28-10-2015
Day #10
29-10-2015
Diary

          Day250 
Watching the sun rise one final time in Darwin, we drove to Maccas in Palmerston and got a free small hot chocolate along with a free chocolate Sunday ice-cream (both costing around $4 each) using the winning tokens. Quick stop to the neighbour shop Repco, we bought a fuel injector for $19, then drove off to Wooly's to stock on some snacks for our trip.
09:45 Driving our way along Arnhem Highway. 
11:33 Welcome to the Aboriginal Land of Kakadu World Heritage National Park. Stopping at an Information Board 20mins later and eating some donuts we bought from Wooly's, we drove to the Kakadu Information Centre, bought our passes ($25/person for 14days), and continued our way to Jabiru. Stopping by at the Bowali Visitor Centre to obtain some information (cold water fountain!) we drove to the Jabiru Supermarket & bought some sausages, then drove to Lake Jabiru to eat. Being surrounded by atleast 70 cockatoos, we cooked Spaghetti in Pesto with Sausage, and drove off once again to Bowali to rest abit from the shade. Fresh free cold water, free wifi, plugs, and sitting down underneath huge ceiling fans, we enjoyed the fact we are not in the 40degrees sun anymore, so stayed there till it got dark. 19:30, a green frog, a grasshoper, spiders and many mosquitos later, we made our way to the rest area just before Jabiru, quiet all alone, and watching Inside Out with some little light breeze.
          Day251
Bardedjilidji - meaning walkway or pathway in Aboriginal, also refers to the roots of waterlilies growing in freshwater swamps and billabongs. 
Garranga'rreli - Rainbow Serpent who travelled through Ubirr in human form and painted images of herself on rock.

Driving to Jabiru Lake at 07:15, we quickly ate some donuts with Jam for bfast, and met up with Lia and Tim Dolby, the famous Australian bird-watcher, for a free guided walk around the Lake for Bird Week. Spottingover 20species of birds, using callouts to hear them reply, specific details provided on the species and its name, and also being lucky in seeing a Barn Owl during the heat of the 9 o'clock sun, we spent 2hours walking, about the Lake, till we made our way at 09:30 to the Bowali Visitor Centre. Taking a look around their Top End and Kakadu Exhibition, and then sat down down in a theater-like, watching two episodes from the series KAKADU (amazing series when man meets wild). 
12:15 We drove to Ubirr and walked along the Bardedjilidji Trek, a 2.5km walk passing sandstone outliers, monsoon vine forest, paperbark woodland and wetlands area. First passing through sandstone rocks formed over 1500milion years ago, pandanus trees, sandstones figs, strychnine trees, a monsoon forest corridor, a cave which was used as a shelter for Aboriginal hunters, more layered sandstone, termite mounds, owenia trees, billabong and the East Alligator River where we came across a huge wild crocodile, and finishing off passing through sandpaper fig trees.
Getting hungry, we drove off to Merl Boat Ramp to eat. Making Small Shells with Sausages and Tomato Sauce (it's a miracle how we didn't end up eating the annoying flies too!), and at 16:00 arrived at Ubirr, driving past many rock formations and trees. Finding a water tap, we quickly washed our feet and hands, face and wet our tops to refresh, then set on a 1km circuit trek. First stopping at the first set of Aboriginal Arts, Mabuyu, Ancestral Art (5,000year old) drawn by red ochre and animal blood of small human figures, long necked turtles and fish. Next stop was the Main Art Gallery, paintings from 1500years ago showing the food available in the surrounds, along with a painting of Thylacine (known as the Tasmania Tiger) extinct 2000-3000 years ago. Next was Rainbow Serpent Boardwalk, Crosshatching Gallery and the Nomarrkan Sisters. Climbing all the way up to the Nadab Lookout, we spent an hour looking down at the view, and enjoyed another unforgettable amazing sunset with a few other people. 18:40, walked the way down, and drove off 40km back to the Bowali Information Point. Charging the Battery Pack, Fan, and switching on the laptop, we sat down watching Finding Nemo, under the ceiling fans, eating crisps and drinking cold water before driving to the rest area at 23:00. What luxury!

          Day252
Dingoes howling. Driving to the town of Jabiru, we hand washed some clothes, had a shower, ate some donuts with honey, then visited Foodland for food later. Around 09:30, we stopped by Bowali Information Centre to refill our water bottles, and headed off. Stopping at Anbangbang, we walked a steep 400m uphill for Nawurlandja Lookout, and enjoyed the views across Nourlangie. Back at the carpark, we walked 250m to Anbangbang Billabong, however everything was dry and not many birds to view.
11:25 Arrived at Nourlangie. Wearing our caps and the car window flynets over our head, we headed on a 1.5km circuit walk, home to the Aboriginal people through the many art sites (such as drawings of the lightning man), and rock shelters, gallery and Gunwarddehwarde Lookout which shows the connection between the people and their land.
13:00 37degrees. Drove to Warradjan Aboriginal Culture museum. Displaying history, traditions, tools, arts, and beliefs from the very beginning of their clan, photographs and quotes, way they hunt and the way they still do things. Started cooking at the nearby tables, we made Fusilli with Chicken in Garlic and Red Wine Sauce, then in the 39degrees heat of the sun drove to Maguk. 17:00, we set on a 1km walk to the falls, passing through sand, crossing a slippery deep creek, and amongst boulders. Swimming at own risk due to crocs, Leon took a dip whilst Kirsten splashed her feet in a wonderful clear pool and Maguk waterfall. Staying for just 30mins, we set on the 20minute walk back to the car, and drove to the campground, passing through huge termite moulds and unsealed road. Hundreds of flies and too hot, we decided to leave the back car door open, and placed the fly sheet there, hoping no wild animal decides to come say a close hello!
          Day253 (Day1 Discovery Trail)
Awoke by birds singing, we set off at 06:45 to Gunlom Falls. Seeing wild buffalos, wild horses and wild donkeys along the way, and driving on a 37km unsealed road, we arrived at 07:55. Climbing a steep 1km uphill to magnificent rock pools and waterfall overlooking Kakadu all to ourselves! Taking a dip in the refreshing water just the two of us, in between the beautiful rock formations, we spent 40mins, then started the steep 20min walk back through huge boulders to get to the car, now with many people and tour buses. 10:20 Driving along the unsealed road to get to the Kakadu Highway, No.21. Slowly driving over bridges for crocs. No luck. 
11:40 Passed Pine Creek, and an hour later in Katherine. Stopping at Maccas for some Grape Slushie, we then visited Wooly's to stock on some food, and stopped at the Lockheed Park. Making some bread with tuna, olives and salad, and drinking some cold Orange&Mango juice, we went to Maccas once more for another $1 slush, refilled water bottles and...

17:45 0km - 39degrees. PETROL #1 Katherine $97.15 ($1.363/ltr). So many termite moulds! And some people enjoy dressing them up. Seen one wearing a bikini, cap and glasses! Another was holding a sword. Also seen a huge one wearing clothes of a man, woman and two kids.
18:45 - 106km Passed Mataranka. Town filled with local aboriginal people, walking around, sat next to trees, barefoot. Arriving at the rest area, we suddenly see smoke. And smell something burning. Then fire. Seeing 3km radius of the rest area covered in fire almost to the middle of the road, we realised we could not sleep there. Sun now set, we had to drive another 37km to the following rest area.
19:40 - 172km. Gorrie Airstrip Rest Area. No fires or smoke. Just kangaroos and flying ants. All good! Setting up the flynet at the back and side doors, switching on the fan, and lied down watching Paper Towns in some cool breeze.

          Day254 (Day2 Discovery Trail)
07:20 - 172km Departed from the Rest Area.
08:24 - 276km PETROL #2 Daly Waters $62.65 ($1.619/ltr). Some reception since Katherine. Refreshing shower and departed at 09:35.
10:01 - 320km Passed Dunmarra.
11:00 - 421km - Elliot. Stopped for 30min stretch and eat some crisps.
14:06 - 675km Tennant Creek. Stopping at Foodland to buy some meat, we drove to Peko Park, and bbq-d lamb chops with sausages. Speaking with a group of Italians who just came up from Alice Springs, we departed at 16:00, 37degrees, but very hot and dehydrating, and all water foundations seemed like heated water. 
16:49 - 679km PETROL #3 - Tennant Creek $96.85 ($1.640/ltr). Continued our way.
18:05 - 786km Karlwekarlwe/Devils Marbles - Aboroginal Dreaming site. Driving passed through huge boulders sizes vary from 50cm-6m, we parked the car (paying $3.30/pax honesty box), and walked amongst the amazing stones, scattered around, some balancing on each other, others weighing and holding next to another, others breaking off into 'The Pebbles'. The sun set behind the formations, creating a spectacular feeling of mass, the spiritual sensation of yourself being so small in the desert. We lied down star-gazing, watching shooting stars, and the half moon shining bright, sky filled with stars, lightning in the background, and a sense of complete cut-off, knowing we were in Centre Australia.
          Day255 (Day3 Discovery Trail/Day1 Red Centre Way) 
Watching the sun rise behind the Devils Marbles, we set off. 
06:44 -786km Drove along the Stuart Highway.
07:07 - 817km. Wycliffe Well. UFO centre of Australia. Whilst no aliens were spotted, the weather did turn to grey clouds, and started to drizzle. 
07:23 - 840km Coming across a sign we never could imagine. Open speed. No speed limits, drive according to conditions. 
08:57 - 998km PETROL #4 - Ti Tree Roadhouse $50 ($1.920/ltr).
11:40 - 1162km Tropic of Capricorn! Going South this time, into the Four Seasons. Its Spring!
12:03 - 1186km Alice Springs! First stop - Maccas for some slush, we stopped at Wooly's for food, then drove out to Telegraph Station to cook some chicken and sausages in wraps. 
16:27 - 1,205km PETROL #5 $77.95 (1.469/ltr). Departed Alice Springs and started the Red Centre Way. 
18:05 - 1,285km Point Howard Lookout, overlooking the West MacDonnell Ranges (Tjoritja) to watch the sun set and sleep for the night.
          Day256 (Day2 Red Centre Way) 
07:05 - 1,285km Departed the Lookout and continued our way along the Namatjira Drive, past the MacDonnell Ranges.
07:14 - 1,296km Turnoff 2km unsealed road to Ellery Creek Big Hole. 100m to creek. Only ones there, Leon took a dip (along with millions of flies), and an hour later continued our drive.
08:36 - 1,310km Turnoff 2km unsealed road to Serpentine Gorge. 3kms in total, 500m of which was a steep uphill to reach to the gorge lookout, at 10:02 we continued our way.
10:18 - 1,326km Turnoff for Ochre Pits; dramatic formations 10m high with swirling colours, used for Aboriginal ceremonies. Departed at 10:50.
11:08 - 1,348km PETROL #6 Glen Helen $48.95 ($2.101/ltr).
12:05 - 1,394km Tyler Pass Lookout. Overlooks Gosses Bluff and took once last glance at the West MacDonnell Ranges. Finding a table, some shade and barely any flies, we decided to cook rice with black bean sauce but eat it later on the day so it will be ready as we were unsure what to find. By the end, as usual, we had over 50 flies encircling us. Departed at 13:25.
13:47 - 1,421km Unsealed road. A very badly corrugated road, full of rocks. New sign: Camel Crossings. 
15:45 - 1, 547km Morris Pass Lookout. Staying inside the car, we got the ready rice and salad, and ate them with wraps. Trying to walk around, we were surrounded by flies and huge bees too! Lying down on the bed, we watched the sun set, both flies and bees disappeared,and we could finally set up the nets, and watched Mortdecai.
          Day257 (Day3 Red Centre Way) 
06:02 - 1,547km Departed from the Rest Area, driving both on unsealed road and back to the sealed road along Watarrka National Park.
06:29 - 1,581km Turnoff to Kings Canyon. Driving 4kms to get to the car park, and started off on a 6.5km Rim Walk along the 100metre Canyon, diverting to Cotterhills Lookout, and Garden of Eden. Walking along the cliff edge, through the canyon, and pass huge boulders, all views were spectacular, each view more spectacular than the next. Connecting to the wifi available, we departed at 10:45.
12:37 - 1,749km Vegemite Tree. Joined the Lasseter Highway.
13:16 - 1,801km FUEL #7 Curtin Springs $50 ($1.96/ltr). Stretched our legs and departed at 13:35. Sighted Ayers Rock and Kata Tjuta amongst the sand dunes and trees!
14:30 - 1,875km Pulled over to check tonight's rest stop. In the bush!
14:40 - 1,886km Yulara. Buying from IGA (items normal priced), we bought 400g sausages and a 1.5ltr cold Mango Ice-Tea for $5.80.
16:35 - 1,894km Passed Pay station to Uluru National Park.
16:48 - 1,903km Uluru Sunset Lookout. Viewed the sun set behind us whilst looking at the colour changes of Ayers Rock. Departed at 19:04. We drove to IGA once again, and bought a pack of x10 Fruit&Cream Lollies for $4. Sitting down at the common outdoor resort area, we decided to give out x2 of the lollies to a mother as we could not eat all.
20:08 - 1,920km Departed from Yulara and 11km later at 20:20 we arrived at the rest area, watched Me and Earl and the Dying Girlfriend and set an early alarm for tomorrow.
          Day258 (Day4 Red Centre Way) 
"White man came across the sea
He brought us pain and misery
He killed our tribes killed our creed
He took our game for his own need"

05:34 - 1,931km Departed the Rest area.
06:08 - 1,965km Arrived at Talinguru Nyakunytjaku Uluru (Sunrise Viewing Area) just exactly in time. Departed at 06:42. Stopping at the Cultural Centre but opens at 08:00, we arrived at Uluru Mala Carpark. Greeted by James and Jane, we were given a walk and tour around the base. Learning about Anangu, the way they taught, hunted, moved to Uluru, how women cooked, their traditions and beliefs, we saw 10,000 year old drawings and their significance, where women nursed, where they cooked, Kantju Gorge, how white man came to destroy all, and most important hot topic at the moment: why not to climb to the top of their home and sacred land - Uluru. Seeing Sky News reporters interview an elder on our way back to the car, and stopping to hear and learn more, we departed to the Cultural Centre at 10:40 and learned more about the Culture. 
11:55 - 1,979km Drove to Kata-Tjuta.
12:23 - 2,013km walked 1km to the Lookout. We then drove to the Picnic Area, surrounded by flies obviously, we cooked some quick noodles for a light snack around 13:00, then drove off to Yulara. Buying orange juice (200ml for 99c) and x8 yogurt ice-creams ($3.99), we quicky walked to the bus stop for a free bus shuttle at 16:05 to Talinguru Nyakunytjaku, Uluru sunset area, to mark the 30th Anniversary when the land was given back to the Anangu People. Being given a mug as an entrance freebie, we saw Anangu Aboriginal dancing and singing, along with a tribe from the Kimberleys, local arts, speeches and country music talent. 38degrees but grey clouds. Receiving a complimentary meal aswell, we spent an evening integrating with these amazing locals, funny and good-hearted people, and couldn't feel any happier knowing the land was given back to the rightful owners after the white man took their rights and home away, and created more damage in the last 50years than the thousands of years Anangu people lived here. Catching the shuttle bus back at 19:50, we stopped by the Supermarket for some cold refreshments.
20:42 - 2,088km Goodbye Uluru. Drove 15km out to Yulara rest area, whilst seeing the sky lightning up, as if ready to burst out a storm any moment.

          Day259 (Day5 Red Centre Way) 
06:00 Watched the sun rise, the amazing colours reflcting the red sand and bush. 
07:05 - 2,102km - Departed from the rest area, with a sky full of grey clouds.
08:07 - 2,174km - FUEL #7 - Curtin Springs $50 ($1.960/ltr). Kirsten driving on highway. Surviving till now.
09:17 - 2,234km Kernot Range Rest Area along the Lesster Highway. Bush shower! Set up the portable shower then after an hour continued our way.
10:47 - 2,279km FUEL #8 Mount Ebenezer $50 ($1.891/ltr).
11:31 - 2,335km Stopped at Erldunda for a stretch. Made friends with a cute grey frog. Thats the end of the Red Centre Way, but still a long way to go to cross the remaining part of Australia. Back onto the Stuart Highway.
12:37 - 2,410km FUEL #9 - Kulgera Roadhouse $50.05 ($1.980/ltr). Tens and tens of Mercedez Army Cars. War is coming!
13:07 - 2,433km Welcome to Outback South Australia. Making some quick noodles with carrots and cucumber (3rd day without cooler - cigarette lighter got melted again and have no means of storing some fresh food!), and departed at 14:31. Kangaroo crossing sign. Someone has good humour, he drew plates on the kangaroo's back. Might see T-Rex crossing!
16:22 – 2,591km FUEL #10 - Marla Travellers Rest $88.55 ($1.529/ltr). Checking receipt. We moved forward an hour! Daylight saving it is now 17:22. This is so confusing! Sand, shrubs, crows, eagles and scattered bones. That is all we saw today. Occasionally some civilisation, cars passing, but the beauty of the outback is unreal.
19:29 - 2,783km Dingo Fence. Built in 1880 (finished after 5years), it is the world's longest fence (5,614km) to keep dingoes out from South-East Australia. 
19:40 - 2,802km Turnoff to the Breakaways - spectacular sighting of the Stuart Ranges which from a distance looks like the land has broken away from the main range. Arriving 11km later, exactly as the sun set, and made way for the moon to shine bright. 
20:28 - 2,840km Coober Pedy. Dark and hungry, we drove around, found John's Pizza Restaurant, and ordered x2 hamburgers with bacon, cheese and salad, and a bowl of chips (huge bag!) for $21. We chilled outside for some fresh air and nice breeze, before we departed at 22:48 and arrived 20mins later at Hutchison Memorial in Maralinga to rest for the night.
          Day260 (Day2 Explorer's Way) 
Coober Pedy: Opal Capital Mining Town. Population 3,500. 80% of town is situated underground.

08:04 - 2,858km. So windy. Departed and drove back to Coober Pedy.
08:27 – 2,871km Info Centre. After speaking with the tourist guy about Malta and its heritage, along with underground temples and his delight in visiting our home country, we were provided information, then visited IGA and bought some nutella and biscuits for breakfast. First visiting the Catacomb Church, built in 1944, we then visited Faye's Underground Historic Home. Paying $5 each, we got a personal tour of the house which was dug out by hand by 3 women over 10years in the early 1960s. Seeing the amazing underground and refreshing house, we then visited another Underground Church 'Revival Fellowship' with ave-like rooms, and St.Peter & Paul's Catholic Church, the first (possibly in the world) underground church. Stopping by IGA once again for food, we cooked Rosemary Lamb Chops with Sausages at the Playground, but after being attacked by so many flies, we eventually had to eat inside the car. 
16:42 - 2,883km - 33degrees. Drove to the Dump Point and paid 20c for 30litres of drinking water to refill all water bottles and tanks. 
17:50 - 2,890km FUEL #11 Coober Pedy $97.20 ($1.469/ltr). Bought beer x6 375ml for $16. Made our way.
18:52 - 3,059km Arrived at BonBon Rest Area. Seeing the sun set and the full moon rising, we drank the Great Northern Beer, watched Aloha and slammed onto the bed.

          Day261 (Day3 Explorer's Way)
07:55 - 3,059km Departed onto the Stuart Highway.
08:00 - 3,144km FUEL #12 - Glendambo Roadhouse $51.12 ($1.559/ltr).
10:14 - 3,237km Lookout to Lake Gairdner. Beautiful white water.
12:26 - 3,419km Welcome to Port Augusta. Wild emus! 
Stopping at Maccas for a free hot chocolate and slush, then off to Wooly's for food. Parking at Foreshore Beach, we cooked Tortellini in Carbonara and Bacon, then spent some time cleaning the car from all the bulldust from inside. Driving off to Laundromat, we washed clothes, curtains, duvet and all bedding using x3 washing machines $4 each. Meeting a French couple and spending some time exchanging information, we departed at 17:30, then drove off to MyCarWash and gave the car a good clean. Washing and rinsing the body and engine for $5, the only thing left to finally be clean was ourselves! No indoor showers, we drove to Foreshore Beach, put on our swimwear and had an outdoor (windy and cold) shower in the middle of the park!
20:02 - 3,452km FUEL #13 Woolworths Port Augusta $60.25 ($1.329). Drove to Maccas for some soft serve, wifi and job hunting. Hunger strikes. Nothing good at Maccas, we went opposite to KFC, but found it closed, so at 22:35 we departed to Coles Express and bought some crisps.
22:48 - 3,458km Departed Port Augusta and drove to Rest Area, eating crisps along the way. Full moon, passing through the landscaped silhouettes of mountains and trees.
23:21 - 3,504km Arrived at the Mambray Creek Rest Area along the Port Wakefield Road, A1, with a chilly 18degrees.
          Day262 (Day4 Explorer's Way)
08:55 - 3,504km Very cloudy and drizzled during the night, we drove off along the A1 Highway, sometimes getting a glimpse of the Spencer Gulf. Stopping by Port Pirie, we visited Maccas for some (free) hot chocolate and $1 hash brown, and $2 waffle cone, then visited the Info Centre who suggested to pass through Clare Valley for a more scenic route towards Adelaide. 
10:47 - 3,548km Continued our soon-coming-to-an-end long trip crossing Australia through the middle.
12:02 - 3,659km Clare. What a typical peaceful wine-region town. Passing through Watervale and Taree, we arrived at Gawler, stopped at the Service SA to advise of Toll fines we were receiving for the old car, then drove off to Pioneer Park to cook Tortellini with Carbonara and Bacon.
15:48 - 3,753km Departed Gawler
16:32 - 3,802km Adelaide! Traffic, rush hour, lights and civilisation. What a difference from desert to city. Stopping by to see where we shall sleep tonight, Bonython Park, we cleared out some stuff from the car, then drove to Maccas at West Terrace just 2kms away. Only 45mins free parking, we bought soft serve cones, then stayed outside in the car to use some free wifi. 
20:30 - Being offered a roof by the couple we met back at Boulder Creek Rest Area in Mount Charlton, we drove to BWS at Emerson for a six pack, and drove around 30kms to Noarlunga Downs. Being welcomed by Kat and Werner, we had a shower, and spent a nice long evening talking and drinking beer, before we slept inside their caravan (the Fifth-Wheeler), with our own bathroom, kitchen, and bedroom!

Statistics for the Chapter

(per person)

Nights/ Accomodation   $2
Vehicles/ Servicing          $0
Petrol                                  $501.73
Others/Food                      $165.77

               Income    $0

Per Day Per Person
      as at 17/10/2015      
   262days

(no income calculated)       $49.21

(income calculated)             $24.52

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