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On the road!
Up to the Far North

23rd February 2016 - 7th March 2016

The New Zealand Adventure Begins! Driving from the hostel in Parnell, Auckland, we set off to the Far North. Passing through the East Coast, along Orewa, Warkworth, snorkelled along Goat Island, Whangarei, visited Abbey Caves, Waipu Caves for glow-worms, and past the Bay of Islands along the East Coast and onto the tip – Cape Reinga! Driving back down along the West Coast, we crossed over towards the Tutukaka Coast once again to dive at the Poor Knights Islands! After a day trip on the boat to visit two diving sites, the large caves RikoRiko, and the dolphins swimming next to the boat, we headed back to Whangarei (East Coast), and onto Auckland Region – Orewa before heading out to the next part of the Journey, The Coromandel.
 


Whangārei
Warmest and only subtropical region in NZ. It was a well established and thriving Māori settlement by the time Captain Cook appeared over the horizon in 1769.

North Island
Known as Te Ika-a-Māui - There are twelve regions. Area 115,000km². Population 3,366,800.

Tane Mahuta
God of the Forest; Over 2,000 years old. This is the largest known living Kauri tree in the world. Trunk height: 17.7m - Total 51.5m. Trunk girth: 13.8m - Volume 244.5m

Poor Knights Island
23km off the mainland, and rated Top Ten Dives of the World. They are remains of a group of ancient volcanoes with thousands of living sea creatures, shellfish, urchins and anemones, gardens of corals an sponges. Above the water, the islands are home to many rare birds. They are the only nesting place of the Buller’s Shearwater, which travels there from North America to breed and shares its burrows with tuatara (a native New Zealand reptile). Around 2.5 million Buller's Shearwaters nest on the main islands every year.

RikoRiko Cave
World's Largest Seacave found in the Poor Knights Island. Entrance 30m deep beneath sea level, and 22m above.


Points of Interest: 
Albany - Long Bay Regional Park – Okura - Shakespear Park - Whangaparāoa Peninsula - Tindalls Beach - Open Sanctuary - Te Haruhi Bay Park - Army Bay Boat Ramp - Orewa Beach – Arundel Reserve - Millenium Walk - Wenderholm Regional Park - Pūhoi River - Hauraki Gulf – Pūhoi – Warkworth -Mahurangi Cement Works - Parry Kauri Park – Leigh - Ti Point - Matheson Bay - Goat Island Marine Sanctuary – Waipu - Te Arai – Mangawhai - Mangawhai Heads Beach - Hen and Chicken Islands - Waipu Caves – Whangarei - Whangarai Waterfalls Otihuai - Abbey Caves - Organ Cave - Mair Park - Onerahi Beach Road Reserve - Whangarei Heads - Te Matau a Pohe - Onerahi Bowling Club Parking Area - Mount Manaia – Waikaraka – Tamaterau – Parua Bay - Whangarei Harbour - McLeod Bay Playground - Reotahi - Munro Marine Bay - Urquharts Bay - Bream Head Scenic Reserve - Woolshed Bay - Te Whara Track - Smugglers Cove - Whangarei Central - Town Basin - Tutukaka Coast - Captain Percy's Rest Area - Ngunguru River – Ngunguru - Whangaumu Bay - Tutukaka Marina - Whale Bay - Woolleys Bay - Sandy Bay - Helena Bay - Oakuru Bay – Russell – Rāwhiti - Oke Bay – Kawakawa - Hundertwasser Toilet – Opua – Paihia – Waipipi - Puketi Kauri Forest – Okaihau - Two Ponga Park - Rainbow Falls – Kerikeri - Matauri Bay - Te Ngaere - Wainui Bay - Whangaroa Harbour - St. Paul's Rock – Kaeo – Mangonui - Lions Park - Karikari Peninsula - Lake Rotopokaka - Karikari Beach - Rainbow Falls - Houhura Heads - Rarawa Beach - Parengarenga Harbour - Grand Tē Paki Sand Dunes - Tē Paki Lookout - North Tip! Cape Reinga (Tē Rerenga Wairua) - Cape Reinga Lighthouse - 90 Mile Beach - Awanui – Kaitaia - Mangamuka Scenic Drive – Umawera – Horeke – Taheke - Omanaia – Whiranaki – Opononi - Koutu Boulders - Hokianda Harbour - North Head Sand Dunes – Hokianda Jetty – Waimamaku Beach – Dargaville - Waipoua Forest – Tane Mahuta - Kai Iwi Lakes – Omamari - Lake Taharoa Domain - Kowharewa Bay Recreational Reserve - Tutukaka Poor Knights Garden

Poor Knights Island
Hide-away Bay/ Dutchman's Cove – Aorangi Island – RikoCave – Jan's Tunnel/Lost World

Waipu Cove Beach – Kaiwaka - Wellsford - Centennial Park – SH1 – Kakanui – Makarau - Kaukapakapa – Helensville

Paid Accomodation:
Kaiwaka Sports Assosiation Campground – Donation Fee to Four Square Supermarket

Shops/Fast-Food:
Clearance Shed – Pak N Save - New World – Countdown - Caltex Petrol Station – McDonalds - Four Square - The Warehouse - New World – Tutukaka General Store – Supercheap Auto – Spotlight – Kaiwaka Grocery Store – St. John Op Shop

Events/Attractions:
Whangarei Markets - Last Saturday of each month at Town Basin.

Yukon Dive Day Trip - websitefacebook - $260 per person for a day trip out to the Poor Knights Island – includes gear, boat expenses, diving guide and tea/coffee and snacks provided. Marina Rd, Tutukaka 0173 - 09-434 4506
 

Fun Fact:
Goat Island Marine Sanctuary - Name derived from the times when goats where placed on the island due to shipwrecks for food to eat.
Waipu - Wai - Water/ Pu – Song
Whangārei Terenga Parāoa - swimming place of the whales
Pa - fortified village
Waka - Canoe
Mere - Stone Weapon
Mount Manaia - Māori legend the five rock formations represent 5people; Chief Manaia and his two children, Pito the beautiful wife he stole from chief Hautatu, and Hautatu himself in pursuit at the back, brandishing his mere, ready to strike the wife down, but they were all turned to stone by the God of Thunder from the skies.
Lake Rotopokaka – Also known as Coca-Cola Lake
Abel Tasman was the first European to record of NZ's existence in 1643, but did not visit. In late 1769, British Captain Cook and French De Surville were the first to lead expeditions and make contact with the locals. Both ships passed each other unseen, unaware of each others presence and expedition.
North Island - Te Ika-a-Māui - Maori name meaning 'The fish of Māui'.
Tane Mahuta - In Maori Mythology, Tane is the son of Ranginui (Father Sky) and Papatuanuku (Mother Earth). Tane is the life giver - all living creatures are his children.
RikoRiko Caves – Bands play in this cave due to the better sound than the Sydney Opera House.

Yukon Dive! Charters

Place: Tutukaka, New Zealand
Visited: 5th March 2016

Paying $269 (each) for two dives at the famous Poor Knights Islands, we found
the service to be good, comfortable boat, well-looked after, very knowledge-able
and a fun day out!

OUR REVIEWS

Diary

          Day378
The adventure starts! Departing at 10:00 from the hostel, after saying goodbye to a few people, we caught the road up North! Stopping by Clearance Shed and Pak N Save in Albany, we drove to Long Bay Regional Park in Okura at 12:15. Walking along the beach, we departed at 12:55 and set off 34kms to Shakespear Park, tip of Whangaparāoa Peninsula, driving many uphills and downhills. Passing by Tindalls Beach, and stopping by a 1910 Woodshed, we drove through an Open Sanctuary and parked at the Te Haruhi Bay Park to cook some Rice in Butter Chicken at 13:50. Enjoying the sun and city view of the Sky Tower from the beach, we stopped at Army Bay Boat Ramp, then departed at 15:55. Arriving at Orewa Beach - Arundel Reserve at 17:00, we sat down eating a Lamington Raspberry Roll, then walked along the Millenium Walk, arriving back at the car to watch the full moon rise slowly from beyond the horizon.
          Day379
08:30 Departed. 8mins later stopped by Wenderholm Regional Park - first Regional Park in Auckland to open to visitors in 1965. Walked towards the Pūhoi River and then Hauraki Gulf. 
Passing through Pūhoi, historical village settled in 1863, we arrived at Warkworth 15kms later. Passing by the Info Point and New World, we visited the historic remains of the cement quarry from 1903 (Mahurangi), now turned to a summer swimming hole. A few kms drive to Parry Kauri Park, 1km circuit walk around the home to thousands of 900years old Kauri Trees.
12:20 Departed 28km to Leigh. Passing hy Ti Point, we stopped at Matheson Bay and cooked Noodles with Butter Chicken and Beef. 
14:50 Departed to Goat Island Marine Sanctuary (Name derived from the times when goats where placed on the island due to shipwrecks for food to eat). Stopping by a Snorkel/Dive shop to enquire about prices ($110 to hire all equippment + 3cyclinders!), she advised us it was low tide and snorkel should suffice. 15:25 Snorkelled for over an hour, seeing stingrays, snappers, goatfish and Puroroa. 
17:45 Departed towards Waipu (Wai - Water/ Pu - Song). Driving inland towards Te Arai, we said a seeyou later to Auckland District and a welcome to Whangarei District. Passing by Mangawhai and stopping at Mangawhai Heads Beach at 18:50, viewing Hen and Chicken Islands, we continued our drive. In a short span of minutes, we drove from sub tropical rainforest, to a beach, to countryside, back to rainforest and another beach. What a lovely drive!
19:55 Arriving at Waipu Caves, ten minutes later we set out with our headtorches inside the cave. Watching our step through very slippery mud and stepping stones on water, we passed through two caves and saw thousands of glowworms, all lit up beautifully on the ceiling. Spending a total of one hour and ten minutes, we came out of the cave very content with the fact that we did not pay one penny (tours charge $135 in other caves) and tucked ourselves in bed on a grassy bit right next to the cave, overhearing Kiwis at night!
          Day380
Departed at 09:05, and arrived at Whangarei Info Point at 09:50 (pronounced Fan-ga-rai). Driving to the Whangarai Waterfalls Otihuai (26.3m drop), then to Abbey Caves at 12:05. Walking towards the first cave - Organ Cave, and passing along huge boulders and seeing glowworms, we had to stop due to not being fully prepared and equipped. The water was already above knee level to continue along the first cave, meaning the two following were even deeper. Returning back, at 13:00 we departed to Countdown. Filling up our 2kg gas bottle from Caltex Petrol Station for just $6.97, we drove to Mair Park but could not find a good location to cook, so drove to Onerahi Beach Road Reserve, overlooking some islands in Whangarei Heads region. 27degrees. Cooking Penne with Tomato Basil Sauce and Sausages, we departed to McDonalds at 16:15, driving over the iconic Te Matau a Pohe (bridge), then went to Pak N Save to stock up on some cheap pasta and sauces for the few coming days. Getting late, we drove to Onerahi Bowling Club Parking Area, opened the moonroof, watched a film, and slept for the night

          Day381
08:50 Departed to Mount Manaia, through a scenic drive passing Waikaraka, Tamaterau, and Parua Bay, along Whangarei Harbour. Climbing a 2km steep uphill with 1095 steps to get to the very top! A very rewarding view and continued climbing on the rock formations to view breathtaking landscapes, we started making our way down and arrived at 11:40, 4.84km in total. Driving up to Four Square and bought 500g of Sausages for $2, and a couple of Lift and Mother Energy Drinks, we drove to McLeod Bay Playground, cooked Penne with Tomato Sauce and Sausage and enjoyed feeding the seagulls. Quickly washing some clothes, we stopped at a beach in Reotahi - Munro Marine Bay. Sunbathing and snorkelling, we decided to drive at 17:20 towards Urquharts Bay. Going for a walk in the Bream Head Scenic Reserve (remains of volcanic eruptions), we passed Woolshed Bay, and detoured onto the Te Whara Track due to some cows not letting us pass and being persistent! Eating some crisps watching the sun setting, we walked passed Smugglers Cove and back to the carpark (4.3km) where we sat on the beach waiting to get dark, then watch some movies

          Day382
Cloudy, and very humid, departed at 09:10 and arrived in Whangarei Central at 09:50. Stopping by the local market at Town Basin held every last Saturday of the month, we viewed sculptures made of Kauri trees, cement and other handmade items, then fuelled up, stopped at Pak N Save, and hit the road towards the Tutukaka Coast. 
11:15 Stopped by Captain Percy's Rest Area next to the historic Ngunguru River eating some sponge cake with Four Fruit Jam. Stopping at Ngunguru and seeing the Whangaumu Bay, we drove to Tutukaka Marina, along Whale Bay, Woolleys Bay and Sandy Bay. 
12:42 Detouring inland on unsealed roads, passing through rainforests, heavy rain and through clouds! Passing by two beaches in Helena Bay, we stopped at Oakuru Bay to cook some food at 14:20. Making Noodles with Minute Steak in Honey and Soy Sauce in the rain, we departed and headed up North, debating where to spend the night. Driving amongst hills and clouds once more, we stopped at a Farmstay in Russell ($12pppn) however decided to pass. Driving up North towards Rāwhiti, we passed by two beaches, one of which called Oke Bay which was a true paradise. Driving down towards Kawakawa, and spending 50minutes trying to see where the fuse box is and fixing it as most of the accessories stopped working, we arrived in our destination for the night by 20:30 at a carpark, then walked around before rushing towards the car when the rain would not stop and increased drastically.
          Day383
Raining all night, we woke up at 08:30, ate some sponge cake with jam, used some wifi and visited a very artistic Hundertwasser Toilet. At 11:02 made our way on the North Road towards Opua and Paihia. Stopping by the Beach and driving around the town, the rain still did not stop, so we decided to just head towards the campsite instead and hope tomorrow would be a good day to sightsee. Passing through Waipipi, we stopped to refuel, buy fresh fruit from a stall, and walked in The Warehouse. Arriving at Puketi Kauri Forest around 14:30, the whole parking spaces to sleep were flooded, so decided to cook first (Marinated Lamb Shoulder with salad), have a freezing cold indoor shower, and at 17:32 departed to another campsite. Just 23kms away, we arrived at Okaihau - Two Ponga Park, and enjoyed playing some cards, doing some research and watching a movie, hoping tomorrow the weather will open up and allow us do some walks and enjoy the beautiful scenery of the beaches
          Day384
08:40 Departed and arrived 40mins later to Rainbow Falls in KeriKeri. Walking around the town and stopping by Maccas and New World, we departed towards Matauri Bay, 32kms. Walking along the beach and enjoying the very hot day and the beautiful islands infront of us, at 12:30 we departed. Stopping on top of a hill for a beautiful lookout over the beach and islands, we passed Te Ngaere and Wainui Bay. 
13:40 Whangaroa Harbour - drove uphill to a start of a 750m very steep climb to St. Paul's Rock. Grabbing onto chains for the last part to climb onto the rock itself, the 360 degrees was astonishing and indescribable. From a sunny beautiful day, 50mins later once we arrived at the carpark, it started to rain and get foggy. Onto Kaeo, we stopped in Mangonui - Lions Park and cooked Rice with Honey and Soy Beef, skies clearing and having fun feeding the choocks. 
16:50 Continued our way to Karikari Peninsula. Stopping by Lake Rotopokaka (also known as Coca Cola Lake), then Karikari Beach, we started making our way to Awanui to sleep for the night, arriving at 19:03, played cards till dark and watched a film.

          Day385
Depared to Kaitaia at 08:15, we shopped around and departed towards Cape Reinga. Stopping by Houhura Heads, then Rarawa Beach (pristine white sand), we stopped by the campground for a cold 'indoor' shower (no ceiling) and started raining as soon as we took off. Viewing a lookout on Parengarenga Harbour, we continued our way to the Grand Tē Paki Sand Dunes.
15:00 Pulled over at Tē Paki Lookout and cooked Pork with Tomato Sauce and Penne. 
16:52 Arrived at the North Tip! Cape Reinga (Tē Rerenga Wairua)! A breathtaking drive, and a stunning landscape of volcanic earth, we walked to the lighthouse, 6211kms away from the South Pole! It also marks the separation of the Tasman Sea from the Pacific Ocean. 
18:06 Made our way to the 90 mile beach on the West Coast. Arriving at 19:15, we drove onto the hard sand, and waited for the sun to set behind the clouds, and the tide coming up. At 20:10 we made our way to the rest area in Awanui, arriving 35mins later, put a film on and slept by 22:30
          Day386
Sun shining! Departed from the freedom campsite by 08:30, and headed to Kaitaia for some Spark wifi and shopping at Pak N Save.
11:05 Departed. Drove through the Mangamuka Scenic Drive, towns of Umawera, Horeke (stopped by the jetty), Taheke, Omanaia, Whiranaki and finally Opononi after some very bad unsealed roads. Arriving at 13:35 at a rest area to start cooking, not even a minute later, it started to rain! Waiting for it to calm down, we quickly cooked Spaghetti with Sausage Meatballs in Tomato Sauce, and ate inside the car till the rain stopped. 
15:35 Heading to Koutu Boulders to view the large rock formations on low tide. Realising we mistakenly swapped the times of the low tide with the high tide, we quickly drove there to our misfortune of the boulders already covered in the sea. Heading to Hokianda Harbour instead, opposite the North Head Sand dunes, we chilled on the beach next to the Jetty, then at 17:40 we drove towards Waimamaku Beach. Stunning landscape through hills to get there, we parked the car, and walked on low tide to view the deserted, wild, long white beach, tide coming in and out, different birds flying around and huge tree trunks naturally scattered on the sand. Watching the sun set at 20:07 and capturing beautiful shots, we stayed longer till dark, then walked back to the car without any rush. Opening the moonroof, we stargazed at the millions of stars our eyes could see, viewing a clear image of the milky way and shooting stars, and by far, we could definitely say this was the most jaw-dropping experience of our New Zealand trip so far!

          Day387
Sun rising behind the hills, we spent a good 30minutes with the couple who slept next to us, Germans with a 4month old baby who have been travelling since she was only 8weeks old! Arriving at 10:47 at the Koutu Boulders, Take #2, we walked 3km amongst boulders only visible during low tide (2.5metres difference), and at 12:10 set off South to Opononi to wash our clothes.
13:03 Departed to Dargaville. Passed through the Waipoua Forest, we stopped at Tane Mahuta to view the large Kauri Tree, then after a 360degrees Forest Lookout, continued our way. Finally arriving at Dargaville around 15:30, we shopped at Countdown, and cooked at a nearby park some Bacon and Tomato Sauce with Spaghetti, then around 19:00, we departed 12km South along the highway to a rest area to sleep for the night, watching the sun set, and later watching a movie.

          Day388
Driving down to Dargaville, we made use of some internet for a possibility of diving tomorrow, bought from Countdown, then at 11:00 made our way to Kai Iwi Lakes in Omamari. Arriving at 11:26 at Lake Taharoa Domain, we enjoyed a good afternoon swimming and sunbathing in the crystal blue lake and white pristine sand, and cooked Fettucine with Lamb Liver. Departing at 17:20, we made a phonecall to confirm a day trip for tomorrow, and then started the 111km trip towards tonight's rest stop. Stopping at Whangarei for some shopping, we continued our way to Tutukaka. Detouring back 15km as we needed internet to transfer some money into the bank card to pay for tomorrow's trip, we then continued our way, arriving at Kowharewa Bay Recreational Reserve at 20:57 and get an early sleep for tomorrow!
          Day389
Waking up at 06:50, we got all our stuff ready, made our lunch and headed off 2.5km to Tutukaka Poor Knights Garden to meet the crew from Yukon Dive. Getting our equipment and filling out forms, at 09:07 we left the mainland! Passing through the smaller Islands, and getting a close up view of the many caves, arches, tunnels and marine reserve, we anchored at Hideaway Bay/ Dutchman's Cove - North of the Aorangi Island. Teaming up with another German guy and Spanish girl, we put our gear on and at 11:40 dived with our guide Imogen. Spending 50minutes and going 18m deep, the water temperature was 21degrees, and visibility was great. Amongst seeing many varieties of coral fish, we also saw a stingray, eel, crayfish, demoiselles and the beautiful coral and kelp. Sailing along the islands and bays, we passed through RikoRiko Cave, world's largest seacave, ate some lunch and enjoyed the 25degrees weather and cloudless sky. 
Around 14:00 we anchored next to Jan's Tunnel. Known as Lost World. Diving for 52minutes, 16m deep, we passed through caves and onto an opening, crystal clear blue sea with hundreds different kind of fish; the closest we could get 'onto' the islands as they are protected. Unfortunately, around 15:30, we headed back to the mainland, at a point having dolphins giving us quite a show alongside the boat. Arriving around 16:45, we headed for a quick outdoor shower at the marina, bought some beer from the General Store, and drove to the same beach we slept last night - Kowharewa Beach. Making some quick noodles with Soy and Cabbages, we quietly sat down, enjoying dusk and looking at the Oystercatchers (birds), drinking beer and according to a local, enjoying the million dollar view

          Day390
A relaxed morning overlooking the beach, we departed around 10:00, drove to Whangarei, and fuelled up and stocked up on food, along with visiting Supercheap Auto and Spotlight. 
13:40 Started our drive towards Waipu Cove Beach. Passing along the highway, we arrived at the busy beach, got out the cooking stuff and made a delicious plate of Fusilli with Tomato Sauce and Sirloin Beef. Buying a can of coke from the General Store ($2.50), we started making our way to Kaiwaka to sleep for the night. Playing some cards, and eating some crisps, we planned out the day for tomorrow, and waited for the sun to set before we watched a film.

          Day391
1month already! 
Waking up and having a free hot shower (finally!), we drove to Four Square Smarket to leave a small donation for the stay. Learning that from 15vehicles, we were the only ones who donated, we drove a few more kms and stopped at a Grocery Store and at St. John Op Shop (Second Hand Shop). Buying a huge mosquito net ($5) and a cute kookaburra toy ($3), we ended up speaking with some locals, and met a lady who's mum is Maltese! Such a small world! After talking for a while, at 11:40 we departed South. Stopping by Centennial Park in Wellsford to fill up our water bottles and gave the car a quick wash, we continued our way. 
Passing through SH1, we stopped at a Lookout and drove past Kakanui, Makarau, Kaukapakapa and onto Helensville - Auckland Region once again. Buying from Countdown, we drove to the Park, cooked Noodles with Tenderised Beef in Coconut Curry and Poppyseed, then after not finding a good place where to sleep for the night, we had to drive all the way East towards Orewa - Arundel Reserve. Eating soft serve from McDonalds, we then drove back to the beach, drizzling, and watched a film.

Statistics for the Chapter

(per person)

Nights/ Accomodation   $2.50
Vehicles/ Servicing          $30.50
Petrol                                  $159.24
Others/Food                      $363.81

               Income    $0

Per Day Per Person
      as at 07/03/2016       
   30days

(no income calculated)       $102.68

(income calculated)             0

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