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South island -
north and west coast

18th September 2016 - 5th October 2016

Finally heading off to the South Island!
Catching the Interislander Ferry to cross the Marlborough Sounds to the South Island, we drove to Picton, drove all the way up to the tip of the Sounds through the French Pass, then started making our way to the West side. Passing by Nelson and Richmond, and after a few requests for someone to keep our stuff safe whilst we go on a 4-day hike in Abel Tasman, we found a Maltese friend in Motueka who funnily enough turned out to be a family friend, who offered to host us. Hiking 71.21kms in 18 walking hours, we spent some time in Motueka before we headed our way to the West Coast. Meeting a Maltese and Scottish fellow couple in Westport, we travelled together along the Glacier Coast, past Hokitika, Franz Josef and Fox Glacier. Meeting our new potential Manager at Top10 Franz Josef, we got ourselves the job, and had 1month to travel the rest of New Zealand before we start work!


 

South Island

In Maori named - Te Wai Pounamu, meaning the waters of greenstone.
The South Island of New Zealand is renowned for its mountains, lakes and glaciers.
Area - 151,215 km²
Elevation: 3,754 m

Population: 1.038 million (Jun 2011)

Abel Tasman
At 22,530 hectares Abel Tasman National Park is New Zealand's smallest national park. It was established in 1942 and is located at the top of the South Island.

Rawhiti Caves

Rawhiti Cave, also known as Manson Cave, is a single large limestone cave in the hillside of the Dry Creek Valley .It is nationally significant as it has possibly the most diverse and extensive entrance - and twilight-zone flora of any cave in New Zealand.
 

Pupu Springs

Te Waikoropupū Springs are the largest freshwater springs in New Zealand the largest cold water springs in the Southern Hemisphere and contain some of the clearest water ever measured.

 

Points of Interest: 
Porirua - Ferry Terminal - Cook Strait - Arapawa Island - Blumine Island - Bay of Many Coves - Hitaua Bay - Ruakaka Bay - Curious Cove – Waikawa

South Island
Picton - Whenuanui Bay Lookout - Governor's Bay Scenic Reserve - Ngakuta Bay - Cullen Point Lookout - Mahaki Paoa - Havelock - SH6 - Rai Valley - Alfred Street Reserve - French Pass - Okiwi Bay - Elaine Bay Campground - Marlborough Sounds - Wharf - French Pass Bay - D'Urville Island - Jetty - French Pass Lookout - Whangamoa - Todd's Valley - Nelson - Centre of NZ - Branford Park - Nelson - Library - Tahunanui Bay - Richmond - Stoke - Montgomery Carpark - iSite - Kinda Beach - Coastal Highway – Motueka

Abel Tasman Walk
Porters Beach - Sty's Lookout - Porters Beach - Tinline Bay - Apple Tree Bay - Stillwell Bay - Anchorage - Te Pukatea Camp - Pitt Head Lookout - Cleopatra's Pool - Torrent Bay - Bark Bay Hut - Onetahuti Campsite - River Crossing - Goat Bay - Totaranui Campsite - Mutton Cove Campsite - Separation Point - Anapai Beach - Marahuti


Riverside - Turlosse Rock - Split Apple Rock - Kaiteriteri - Golden Bay - Rawhiti Caves - Clifton - Grove Scenic Reserve - Wharariki Beach - Archway Islands - Pupu Springs - Richmond - Wai-iti - St. Arnaud - Nelson Lakes - Lake Rotoiti - Murchison - Lyell Campsite - Inangahua - Westport - Kilkenny Lookout - Kawatiri Beach - Library - Brougham Street - Great Coast Road - Barrytown Coastal Site - SH6 - Greymouth - Glacier Highway - Hokitika - Clock Tower - Hokitika Gorge - Kaniere - Ross - Harihari - Whataroa - Ianthe - Lake Mapourika - Lake Wahapo - Franz Josef Glacier - Fox Glacier Carpark - Lake Matheson

Bars/Restaurants:

Cape Palliser Cafe - Gibby's Cafe

Shops/Fast-Food:

Countdown - The Warehouse - Fresh Choice - McDonalds - Red Cross - St. Vinnies - Salvation Army - New World - Pak N Save - K-Mart - Challenge Petrol Station - Top10 Holiday Park - Four Square

Others:

InterIslander Ferry – websitefacebook – A three hour transport service between the North and South Island. 1 Aotea Quay, Wellington, New Zealand - 0800 802 802
AquaTaxi – websitefacebook - Abel Tasman AquaTaxi provides water taxi trips, sea shuttle services, scenic cruises and pack/luggage transport in the Abel Tasman National Park, NZ. 03-527 8083
Geocaching - Website - An outdoor, world-wide treasure hunt.
Motueka Resource Recovery Centre (Transfer Station) - Robinson Road, Mariri, New Zealand 03 526 7896
Register Car – Can be extended on a monthly basis, and price depends on the type of car. Can be done at any Post Office.

Events/Attractions:
Riverside Community - A community which wanted to break away from monetization and corporations, and wanted to grow their own, and live on their own organics, just by volunteering.
Motueka Sunday Markets – websitefacebook – Combination of a farmers market, a craft market, a second-hand market as well a great place to eat, and relax. Decks Reserve Carpark, Motueka 7120 03-540 2709

InterIslander Cook Strait Ferry

Place: Wellington, New Zealand
Visited: 18th September 2016

Rather than a review, this is more
of a complimentary statement, a 
THANK YOU, for the grand gesture
of being given a $250 voucher.

OUR REVIEWS

Abel Tasman Great Walk
Day #1
23-09-2016

Total 16.57km 

Day #3
25-09-2016

Total 61.75km

Day #1 - Total 16.57km

Day #2 - Total 39.05km

Day #2
24-09-2016

Total 39.05km

Day #4
26-09-2016

Total 71.20km

Day #3 - Total 61.75km

Day #4 - Total 71.20km

Diary

          Day586
South Island. Here. We. Come!
Alarm at 06:10, heavy rain and wind, we started packing the last final things, said our goodbyes and at 07:18 we took off! Leaving slightly late, we risked fuelling up the car from Porirua at 07:29 (1.779/ltr - probably South Island we are not going to find any cheaper), and continued the road. Two wrong roads taken, getting late. At 07:56 dropped off the GoPro cover lens at Miguel's, and darted off to the Ferry Terminal. Rain finally calmed down, drive drive. 
08:05 EXACTLY ON TIME. Vehicle Check-In, stood in Row 3 waiting to board (vehicle #200).
08:39. Boarded. Parked on Deck 3, Space 123. Walking up to OceanView Eatery, we sat down, and had our breakfast (hash browns, sausages, baked beans, scrambled eggs, bacon and toast), with a warm drink. Getting abit seasick (Southerly wind, 20knots). 
10:40. Walking outdoors, rain finally stopping, slight hail, we passed the Cook Strait, viewing Arapawa Island (saw a seal!), Blumine Island, Bay of Many Coves, Hitaua Bay, Ruakaka Bay, Curious Cove, Waikawa and onto Picton, eventually seeing more swimming seals! 
13:08 Drove out of the Ferry, and onto the South Island! Stopping by Whenuanui Bay Lookout, Governor's Bay Scenic Reserve, and Ngakuta Bay. What a difference from the North Island. The scenery is already so different and more dramatic. 
14:46 Cullen Point Lookout, Mahaki Paoa. 1.2km. Driving towards a cute small mussel town, Havelock, we continued along the SH6 up to Rai Valley. Green hills everywhere! Weather opened up! Parked next to Alfred Str Reserve, we ate the cooked Rice Salad we had made, downed a couple of beers, and enjoyed playing some card games, sudoku and OXO with the lit fire next to us, and enjoying our first night on the South Island.
          Day587
Sleeping amidst the clouds and mountains!
Departed at 08:39 from the rest area, and headed North towards French Pass. Driving past clouds, we stopped at Okiwi Bay, beautiful fresh emerald lake, the sun finally peeping through. Past the winding road, uphill and downhill, we got to Elaine Bay Campground at 10:02, stunning scenery of the Marlborough Sounds. Walking along the Wharf, we set on a 22km unsealed road through more hills and farms filled with sheep and lambs. Arriving at 11:28 at French Pass Bay, overlooking D'Urville Island. Ate some Pringles and Beer along the Jetty, we enjoyed the sun, and light breeze...
12:22 Continued our way back, walking 800m return to the French Pass Lookout, we went back to Elaine's Camp, cooked some Butter Chicken Noodles (quick and easy as didn't find any supermarkets along the way), and played some games, Battleship, OXO and scribbling on brochures. 
16:42 Spontaneously decided to head back down to avoid tomorrow's long drive. Passing by the same route, grey skies and through the clouds, arrived at Alfred Stream Reserve once again at 17:39. A beer and a fire later, it started to drizzle, and went in bed to sleep around 20:00.
          Day588
Crispy morning. Departed at 08:07 we made our 47km way to Nelson, passed Whangamoa and Todd's Valley. Arriving around 09:00, we headed to Countdown and the Warehouse, then after driving to the Centre of NZ, we headed to Branford Park, and cooked some Linguine with Surimi and Mussels in Tomato Sauce. Weather very hot, around 14:00 we headed to Fresh Choice, bought some milk and cookies, then headed to the Library for some internet. 
Driving to see where to sleep for the night, we drove to McDonalds to catch up with some family, and after dark around 19:20 we headed to Countdown, bought $2.43 Pizza Pepperoni, and ate it at the car park just before heading to sleep. (Viewed our first Starbucks in NZ!)
          Day589
After a few honks and noise during the night from locals, we woke up at 07:00, and headed around the block for Spark Wifi to call a friend who has his bday. Around 08:40, and a shower ($2) later, we headed to Countdown for some Bacon and Cheese Pie ($1.30), and headed to the Library. Scanning some documents, we then headed towards some Op Shops (Red Cross, St. Vinnies and Salvation Army), headed to New World for some lunch, and drove out towards the Bay at Tahunanui, with gorgeous views of the beach. Making some bread with Ham and Salad, we ate along the beach shore, dipping our feet in the hot sand, and still debating whether we do the Abel Tasman walk or not (not sure where to leave our stuff), headed down to Richmond for Pak N Save. Stocking on food as supermarkets aren't too common along the West Coast, and probably very expensive, we bought around $22 worth of food, pasta 75c each (!), sauces, packets, canned veggies etc. 
Driving to the Library, we planned out a rough route for the potential walk, and sent out a CS request, however at 18:00 (library closes) we received news the couple we requested to keep our stuff did not want to be held responsible. Still deciding what to do, we headed to the Warehouse and Kmart for camping equipment, then after calling Miguel to enquire about his walk, drove to Stoke to fuel up the car, and back to Montgomery Carpark in Nelson. Posting in groups and getting some response,we decided to sleep, and hopefully sort things for Friday's walk.
          Day590
16degrees. Busy day ahead! Still debating where to leave our stuff and if we should go on the walk and leave our stuff behind in the car, we drove to Countdown for some chocolate milk, had a shower, then headed to the Library to do some research. Receiving amazing news of a particular Doria (Maltese) who can keep our stuff, we finalised the map route, went to Warehouse to buy a tent and gas ($35)($16), iSite to book the accommodation ($14/p/n), called the AquaTaxi to book a water taxi back on Monday ($47/p), then headed out to Richmond Pak N Save to buy some final food. 
12:30 All set, we drove to Kinda Beach, along the Coastal Highway. What a cute small equipped campground. Making some Linguine with Liver and Eggs, we sat down in the sun, then tried out the tent, and started packing seeing what needed to be taken. Around 16:50, we set off to Motueka, to be welcomed at a Maltese' home and to be able to leave our stuff at hers during our walk. Meeting Doria and her gorgeous dog Molly, we spent a good time chatting, having some roasted chicken with baked potatoes, and kale, and after a few more laughs and tale-telling, hit to bed at around 23:30, excitement kicking in.
          Day591
Quick Muesli for breakfast, and at 09:05 departed. 17kms towards the Aqua Taxi parking, and walked 1km towards the Entrance. 
10:08 1km Started the Trek!
10:20 2.38km Porters Beach. 
10:25 2.73km Sty's Lookout. 
10:30 3.03km Porters Beach. 
10:42 4.00km Tinline Bay. 
11:43 7.53km Apple Tree Bay. 
12:15 9.45km Stillwell Bay. Rested for 15mins. 
13:35 13.85km Lookout. 
14:05 15:45km Anchorage. 
14:25 16:57km Te Pukatea Camp. 
Pitching up the tent, we cooked our ready made Mac N Cheese Packet meal, searched for a Geocache, walked along the beach all to ourselves, then watched the sun set, and snuggled in the hard but comfy tent.
          Day592
Watched the sun rise at 05:50, made some oats, and after putting 
down the tent, we set off!
08:20 0km Departed Te Pukatea Campsite. 
08:33 0.8km Pitt Head Lookout. 
09:06 2.82km back to Anchorage. 
10:10 6.95km Cleopatra's Pool. 
10:32 8.32km Crossed Torrent Bay on low tide, but still got wet. Relaxed for twenty minutes, snacking on crackers, and waiting for our feet to dry and rest. 
13:20 16.87km Arrived at Bark Bay Hut. Deciding to rest for an hour, we sheltered from the rain, and hit the road again for the last 5kms. 
15:55 22.48km Finally our last stop for the day. Putting up the tent, we went to the shelter, met two german guys who kayaked almost the same route we walked, cooked some Carbonara Pasta, then after a good talk till around 19:30, then hit to bed.
          Day593
Rain all night, however stopped just in time to put the tent away. Made some Porridge, and off we go on Day 3!
09:28 0km Departed Onetahuti Campsite. 
12:25 9.25km River Crossing. 
13:12 13.05km Goat Bay. 
14:01 16.08km Totaranui Campsite. Rested for an hour, and continued our last 5kms to the campsite. 
16:45 22.70km Mutton Cove Campsite. Beautiful but windy beach. Pitched the tent, cooked Creamy Bacon Pasta, and stayed in the tent to be protected against sandflies and rain.
          Day594
09:35 0km Departed Campsite towards the tip of Abel Tasman. 
10:00 1.35km Separation Point. Viewed seals. 
10:40 2.85km Arrived back at the campsite, made some Porridge, pt the tent down, and at 11:35 set to to back.
12:08 5.40km small detour to Anapai Beach. 
13:12 9.45km Arrived at our last stop - Totaranui Campsite. Total 71.21kms in 18hours. 
15:02 Caught the Aquataxi back to Marahuti. Stopped along a bay to view seals and pups, and headed back.
16:00 After the boat being towed by a tractor, we drove back to Motueka, rain hasn't stopped. Back at the house, we unpacked all our stuff, put things to wash, and after finally sorting out all things, had Doria (our Maltese host) making us some Baked Penne (Imqarrun) and enjoyed some beer.
          Day595
Finally, after a morning of drizzle, we had the rest of the day pure sunshine. Sorting out stuff in the car, applying for jobs, and Leon going to the Library, before we knew it, it was already time to eat. Visited Countdown, and attempted in some Rissoles with Rice, Chicken Mince and corn. Very yummy! We chilled during the evening, occasional beer, and hit to bed late at night.
          Day596
Rain in the morning, weather opened up in the afternoon, and had managed to sort some things out. Walking around the city of Motueka, we then went back home, and our host Doria took us to the oldest community in NZ which was at Riverside, and happened to be close friends with. Having Verina guiding us around and inviting us over at her cabin, we learned how the community wanted to break away from monetization and corporations, and wanted to grow their own, and live on their own organics, just by volunteering. Seeing a gallery, walking into the cafe, viewing the orchards and the food stall, and also saw where the calves are, and got to feed one off a bottle. Finishing our trip around the Community, we headed back to Doria's house, and decided to cook Dinner. Making Minced Rissoles (Pulpetti) with Chips and salad, we enjoyed a big meal with Verina aswell, then ate some desert cream cake and hit to bed.
          Day597
Raining in the morning, we chilled indoors and ate some pancakes for breakfast. Heading towards The Warehouse, Countdown and New World, at around 14:00 we got in Doria's LiteAce van, and hit the road towards Kaiteriteri. Parking next to Turlosse Rock, we got out the buckets, and went mussle hunting along the rocks. Walking around the beach, we then headed out to Split Apple Rock, ate some crisps with Pesto Dip along the beach, then started heading back home. Stopping by the Community, we sat chilling around the place, then met up with a resident there (Victor) and gave us some of his home freshly brewed kiwi wine.
Back at the house, Doria made us some Tacos with Minced Meat, then steamed up and cleaned the mussels, and chilled on the couch talking and laughing till late night.
          Day598
Not a good day for Kirsten. Feeling sick in the morning, we spent the whole day indoors, making Chicken Broth for lunch, and lazying around hoping to feel better by the weekend to continue our travels.
          Day599
Another day of rain. Making some Oats for breakfast, preparing lunch, and by 10:10 all three of us including Molly headed out to Golden Bay area. First stop - Rawhiti Caves. Climbing a steep and muddy uphill (1.5km per way), we got to the wonderful huge caves - said to be a million years old. Already 13:30, we drove towards Clifton and hiked around the Grove Scenic Reserve. Huge amazing boulders covered in moss and under a blanket of rainforest trees (670m return).
Driving towards the tip of NZ, we stopped at the Cafe for Doria's hot chocolate, and then started a walk towards Wharariki Beach. Walking past sheep and farm land, sand dunes and forests, we arrived at the Beach, next to the Archway Islands, and enjoyed looking at the baby seals playing in the water, giving us quite a show! (3.81km return).
Already 18:00, drizzling, we started our 111kms way back. Dusk, we quickly stopped by Pupu Springs (largest fresh springs in NZ - and so clear!), walked a 500m circuit trek, and walked back to the Lite-Ace.
Arriving at 21:00, supermarkets all closed, we started making some Pasta Aglio e Olio, and started packing to depart tomorrow!
          Day600
(ALREADY!!)
Packing our stuff, and heading quickly to the Sunday Markets, we said our goodbyes, and headed out around 13:38. Sunny day. Heading to the Recycling Centre in Motueka, after filling a bag with clothes for $2 (and the short 5-minute heavy rain), we drove off to Richmond. Stopping by Pak n Save, Warehouse and Fresh Choice, we finally headed out towards the West Coast. Passing by Wai-iti, we stopped at St. Arnaud, and viewed the Nelson Lakes - Lake Rotoiti. Cloudy day, but we could still see some mirror reflection, swans, ducks and eels. Making some Fettucine with Egg and Sausages, around 19:05 we headed out towards our campsite for the night. Stopping by Murchison for some wifi, around 20:30 we headed 30kms towards Lyell Campsite in Inangahua, now dark, to sleep for the night.
          Day601
Waking up at 07:15, we got attacked my hundreds of midges, and after quickly putting away the stuff in its place, headed out towards Westport. Stopping by Kilkenny Lookout, we arrived to the West side at 08:45. Walking in New World and buying x2 Bread reduced to $2, we drove to Kawatiri Beach, and ate the Pizza Bread there. Driving around town, we headed to the Library to charge our phones, and at 12:45 headed to New World to meet some fellow Maltese travellers.
Introducing ourselves with Lorraine and Steve, we headed to Gibby's Cafe along the Brougham Street and enjoyed a good talk, and some preparations.
16:08 Headed towards the Great Coast Road! Stopping by a couple of lookouts, both us and them headed towards Barrytown Coastal Site. A beautiful drive and scenic spot for the night, we stayed in their campervan, cooked some sausages, chicken and ate some bread, and spent the rest of the evening talking, staying up till midnight shooting pictures of the clear and starry night sky, and having fun with the lights.
          Day602
A very warm night, we woke up around 07:15, and walked back into the campervan to plan out the day. Having a nice warm cup of coffee, a bowl of oats with yogurt and a slice of toast with ham and cheese, at 10:02 we headed out along the beautiful scenic drive of the SH6. Finally arriving at Greymouth, we extended the Rego by another 3months for $34.37, fuelled up, visited Countdown, The Warehouse and New World, and met up with Lorraine and Steve at the Challenge petrol station. Having a $2 shower, we both departed Greymouth, at 13:12. 
13:43 Glacier Highway. Driving past Hokitika, we viewed the Clock Tower, visited the beach with the town's name made with branches, then continued our trip inland towards Hokitika Gorge. Quickly walking in their camper van to shelter against the rain and midges, we cooked some meat with sausages and pork, then decided to go for the walk. A beautiful scenic trek, we walked over a suspension bridge, and arrived to a beautiful stop along the lake with crystal blue water. Spending a good few time there, we headed back around 17:00, and decided to drive to sleep for the night, setting the GPS to 143kms. Passing by Kaniere, Ross, Harihari, and Whataroa, we stopped at Ianthe along the way for a short break. Having to pay $13 per person for a campsite at Lake Mapourika, we decided to drive 6kms to Lake Wahapo to sleep for free. Having Lorraine cook us some Tortillas, we celebrated Steve's belated 40th birthday with some beer and mudcake, and after discussing some travels, headed to our car to sleep.
          Day603
Heavy rain during the night. Morning porridge and ham and cheese toast, at 09:48 we all set off to Franz Josef Glacier. Setting off on a 6.15km return track, raining occasionally but heavy, we viewed what is left of the Glacier, which unfortunately is deteriorating at a fast pace. Heading out to the Village, we visited the Top10 Holiday Park for a job position we applied, however Melissa (woman who we had to speak to) wasn't there. Quick stop at Four Square (ham, cheese and eggs costing $15.23), we headed out towards Fox Glacier Carpark. Co-ordinates taking us to another place by mistake, we managed to drive to the correct place and meet up with Lorraine and Steve once again. Snacking on some sammy, we set on another walk towards the Fox Glacier this time, 3.68km return), viewing more dramatic scenery and more glacier. 
17:23 Headed towards Lake Matheson. Quickly setting up the bed, we sheltered in the motorhome, cooking some Penne with Tomato Sauce and Sausages, drank some beer, and ate some mudcake and Tim-Tams, spending one last night together.

Statistics for the Chapter

(per person)

Nights/ Accomodation   $84
Vehicles/ Servicing           $34.69
Petrol                                      $117.36
Others/Food                        $197.75
               Income    $0

Per Day Per Person
      as at 05/10/2016       
   603days

(no income calculated)       $32.95

(income calculated)             $3.33

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