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k'gari - fraser island

19th August 2015 - 25th August 2015

Re-writing the Route for Fraser Island around 6/7 times as we mistakenly swapped the tidal waves high with low, (you need to ideally 'book' the campsites you would be sleeping on), we still did not stick to it 100%. Visiting the Queensland Parks and Wildlife Service at Rainbow Beach for details, bookings, and permits, we arrived at 14:17 on 19th August, drove all the way up through the 75-mile beach to Indian Head. PSI dropped from 38, to 20. Hitting all the famous spots on our way down, we drove to the West Side, along the centre and after 6nights and 7 days and 448kms, unfortunately departed Paradise, and headed up North through Maryborough, Hervey Bay and Apple Tree Creek.​


 

Fraser Island
Also known as K'Gari in Aboriginal. A heritage-listed island located along the southern coast of Queensland. Its length is about 120 kilometres (75 mi) and its width is approximately 24 kilometres (15 mi). The island is considered to be the largest sand island in the world at 1,840 km2.

Points of Interest: 

Gympie – Tourist Drive40 - Toolara State Forest - Fraser Island Tourist Drive 43 - Cooloola Beach – Rainbow
Beach - Lawrie Hanson Park - Griffin Esplanade – Inskip Point
Fraser Island
75-mile Beach – Maheno Shipwreck – Burad Campsite - Middle Rocks – Indian Head - Champagne Pools -
Red Canyon – Dundubara - Wungul Sandblow - Cathedral Beach - The Pinnacles - Northern Forests Scenic
Drive - Knifeblade Sandblow - Lake Allom – Woralie - Awinya Creek - Tuwoi Creek - Lake Coomboo - Hidden
Lake - Boomerang Lakes - Yidney Scrub - Lake Garrawongera Scenic Drive - Lake Garrawongera - Happy
Valley - Eli Creek - Maheno Campsite - Maheno Wreck - Chard Rocks – Cornwells - Central Lakes Scenic Drive
- Stonetool Sandblow Lookout - Lake Wabby - Hammerstone Sandhill - Kingfisher Bay - Dundonga Creek -
Balargan Circuit - North White Cliff Lookout - Central Station – Kauri Campsite - Lake Mckenzie - Southern
Lakes Scenic Drive - Lake Birrabeen - Lake Benaroon - Lake Boomanjin – Govi Campsite - Lake Wabby –
Eurong - Brush Box Forest
Maryborough – PL Travers Statue – Hervey Bay - The Pines - Sandy White Memorial Park – Bruce Highway –
Apple Tree Creek

Fuel: 
Before departing (Rainbow Beach) - $1.360/ltr
On Fraser (Happy Valley) - $2.200/ltr
After Fraser (Hervey Bay) - $1.327/ltr

Shops/Fast-Food:
Rainbow Beach Fuel Stations - Happy Valley Fuel Station - Eurong Bakehouse - 4wd Complete Car wash –
Hungry Jacks – Aldi – Fresh Produce Market – Coles - Pialba
 

Others:
Rainbow Beach Queensland Parks and Wildlife Service – website - Information Office about all Queensland
Parks, including Fraser. Obtain permits, pay camping fees, barge information, viewing of safety videos on
sand 4wd, tide information, and other enquiries. $5.95 per person, per night ($71.40) and additional $47.60
Permit.
Rainbow Beach Road, Rainbow Beach. Monday to Friday 8.00 am to 4.00 pm (Closed weekends and public
holidays).
MantaRay Barge – website - $120 Return Ferry ticket including passengers + driver. Inskip Point.

Fun Fact:

K'Gari - In the Butchulla people's language, Fraser Island was known as “K'gari” (pronounced “gurri”)meaning “paradise”. Butchulla translates as “the sea people”. Archaeological evidence suggests Aboriginal settlements existed on Fraser Island at least 5000 years ago.

Lake Mckenzie - Boorangoora (meaning ‘waters of wisdom’ and also known as Lake McKenzie) was a place for decision-making. The wise ones would meet here to listen for messages on the breezes sent from the spirits. Butchulla people camped near fresh water sources such as Boorangoora to eat and drink. They did not swim in these waterholes, taking care not to dirty their source of drinking water. If the land grew tired, they moved camp to allow rain, sun and wind to cleanse the site.

Fraser Island Map
Diary

          Day191 (Fraser Island Day1)
Low tide: (14:48 - 18:48)
Waking up by the birds singing, we continued planning out the route for Fraser Island and finally managed to sort out the days with the low tides and hopefully manage to see all. 
09:00 Drove through Gympie, and caught the Tourist Drive 40. 56km left, we passed through Toolara State Forest, millions and millions of tall standing trees aligned. Catching the Fraser Island Tourist Drive 43, 18km left now, at 11:00 we arrived at Cooloola Beach and bought some last few fresh items from Wooly's. 
12:25 Rainbow Beach. Stopping by at the Queensland Parks and Wildlife Service, we booked 6 nights and paid for the permit. Total of $119. Watching a 'How to Drive Safe on Sand' video, shown at the Info Point, we parked at Lawrie Hanson Park along Griffin Esplanade. Making some bread with oil, tuna, vegetables, olives, tomato paste and turnip to eat later, we realised it was 13:35 and had to drive 14km to get the ferry by 14:00! 
Fuelling up to the max, we set the GPS who said will arrive past two! Trying to speed up, we arrived just 800m to the ferry, and had to deflate the tyres down to 20psi due to soft sand.
14:05, driving on sand to get to the Manta Ray barge from Inskip Point. Paying $120 (return ticket), we departed at 14:10!
Just a short trip, we arrived at K'Gari (Fraser):

14:17 Scorching 23degrees - Driving along the sands of the biggest sand island in the world! Going low tide, we drove along the 75 mile beach highway (no tarmac, just sand) passing tree branches, crossing creeks and seeing our first dingo on Fraser! 15:30 57km Maheno Shipwreck.
16:00 85km Burad Campsite. Seeing that we still have time for low tide (18:48) and sun still up, we drove to Middle Rocks.
16:10 95km Indian Head. Drove along all the beach on the famous 75mile in almost 2hrs. Passing through an inland track, we had to engage low gear mode due to softer sand. We arrived at Middle Rocks, parked the car and walked 400m to arrive at Champage Pools.
16:47 Making our way down to Burad (campsite for the night). Found a good spot where to park. Whilst eating the bread and having a beer, the whales gave us quite a show. Seeing them perform 'The Blow', 'The Breach' and 'Peduncle Arch', also heared them shout, the first day already turned out awesome. 
18:15 Already dark and a sky full of stars, we set the alarm and got ourselves ready for a very early wake up call.

          Day192 (Fraser Island Day2) 
Low tide: (03:18-07:18)(15:41-19:41)
05: 45 - Watched the sun rise from our car. A cloudy day. Temperature unable to tell. 
06:28 - 111km. Left Burad camping zone. Driving on 2wd.
06:38 - 117km. Stopped at Red Canyon (7mins).
06:50 - 120km. Dundubara.
07:23 - 09:34 - Walking trek 8km - Wungul Sandblow circuit. Walking through the rainforest suddenly we got to a huge area without vegetation and only sand dunes. Walking some few km's in the empty and long dessert we made our way back to Dundubara. 
After eating some pineapple and oranges at the tables provided by the campsite, at 11:03 drove along the beach in the high tide. Finding a good spot to park, we sat down eating Crisps dipped in Caramlesied Onion with Smoked Bacon, and drinking Great Northern Beer while enjoying the view.
11:32 Making our way down South. Passing many deep creeks and stopping by to see a huge jellyfish washed up ashore, we entered Cathedral Beach around 11:47 and 128km. Finding unleaded $2.20/ltr, we decided to pass for the time being and kept driving along the beach.
12:02 - 131km. The Pinnacles.
12:14 - 132km. Entrance to the Northern Forests Scenic Drive. Driving through Eucalypt Forest. Now drizzling heavily. 
12:33 - 13:00 136km. Knifeblade Sandblow 500m walk to Lookout. 
13:17 - 141km. Caught a 1km road to Lake Allom. We parked our car and walked 200m one way to the lake, we watched freshwater turtles peeping through the surface.
13:57 - 143km. Diverted from North Scenic Drive and drove to Woralie (west side of Fraser).
14:33 - 155km Driving along the Western Beach.
14:56 - 165km Passed Awinya Creek.
15:12 - 172km Arrived at Tuwoi Creek. Northest Point to drive on the West side.
Driving back down to Woralie (190km), the sun burning hot and a lovely paradise beach (almost empty with just a few campers along the beach). Finding a good spot to stay for the night, at 15:50 we got the table out and started cooking. Making Penne with Carbonara, Luncheon Meat (bought 1kg for $2.89 - hopefully will last us all week), vegetables and some leftover dip. What K'Gari! Getting out the tent to sleep tonight, it suddenly started raining then stopped, leaving us with a view of the rainbow over the creek. Pegging the tent, we look towards the right hand side and see dark thick clouds overtaking the sky and slowly moving towards us. Pulling down the tent quickly, one side we had the sun setting with blue skies, the other side was black. Tropical Madness!
18:00 Making it in time exactly, we got in the car and decided it would be a safer sleep in the Pajero for the night, parked in between the fresh water Woralie creek and the sea.
          Day193 (Fraser Island Day3) 
Low tide: (03:55-07:55) (16:45-20:45) 
After a night of full on thunder and rain, the skies opened up to a beautiful day. 
07:28 - 191km Left Woralie.
08:15 - 203km Caught road to continue along the 'Northern Forests Scenic Drive' 
08:45 - 212km Parked car and walked the Lake Coomboo trek. After 2km, we came to an intersection. 400m one way, we first saw Lake Coomboo. 2.1km the other way we walked to Hidden Lake. Total 8.91km. 
11:11 Continuing our drive on sand and the forest.
11:24 - 217km. Parked car and walked 200m one way to Boomerang Lakes.
11:52 - Making our way to Yidney Scrub - a gorgeous and wild tropical rainforest.
12:47 - 233km. Diverted onto Lake Garrawongera Scenic Drive to get to the Lake. 
13:07 - 239km. Parked the car and walked 200m to get to Lake Garrawongera.
13:41 - Made our way back to the eastern beach - Happy Valley. Pass the intersection an extra 3km. Fed the car $90 petrol ($2.20/ltr - 40.91l)
14:15 - 5km along the beach and reached Eli Creek. Walking the 400m boardwalk along the creek, we parked the car sideways and started cooking. Making Spaghetti Honey Teriyaki, luncheon meat, olives and vegetables, we enjoyed the heat of the sun, then splashing our feet along the shallow iconic creek. 
16:44 - Made our way along to Maheno Campsite. After walking along the beach and looking at what the tides bring ashore, we walked back to the car around 17:10 and waited, listening to the ocean tides till it was dark and went to sleep.
          Day194 (Fraser Island Day4)
Low tide: (04:39 - 08:39)(18:09 - 22:09)
Alarm set to 05:20, we set off 1 km North to the Maheno Wreck. Trying to catch the sunrise behind the wreck on timelapse, we were unlucky with a morning full of clouds.
06:53 Made our way South.
07:00 - 263km Chard Rocks.
07:28 - 282km Arrived at Cornwells and caught Central Lakes Scenic Drive.
07:37 - 284km Stonetool Sandblow Lookout. Walked a few metres (6mins)
08:02 - 09:20 - 289km Diverted to a 1km drive to Lake Wabby. Stopped for a quick bfast (crackers and jam), then walked 500m to Hammerstone Sandhill and Lake Wabby. 09:50 - 298km. Diverted from Scenic Drive towards Kingfisher Bay. Trying to make way for a 4wd coming in our direction, we reversed right into a tree (due to very soft sand, controlling the car is difficult) and pressed the corner bumper inwards. Just our luck! But nothing major atleast. 
Arriving at 10:35 at the resort and finding the first tarmac road on fraser, we parked the car and walked along the western beach. Finding tiny crabs and dingo footprints along the shore, we walked some 1.2km and reached Dundonga Creek. A picturesque sight of emerald green creek, merging with the sea, with trees and plants sprouting from between sand. We caught the Balargan Circuit and walked 1km uphill to the North White Cliff Lookout, then another 1.2km back down to Kingfisher Bay
11:45 - 304km Road down to Lake Mckenzie. Mislead by signs, we skipped Lake Mckenzie and arrived at Central Station at 12:43 (322km) - two campsites (Satinay and Kauri) right in the middle of the rainforest. Finding a good spot where to eat, it suddenly started to pour heavily. Getting out the tarpe and trying to tie the poles with the trees, at 13:55 the rain calmed down and took the opportunity to start cooking. Making Fussilli with Four Cheeses Sauce and Luncheon Meat, the weather finally opened up around 16:15. Having two crows tearing open a bag and trying to steal our herbs, we packed the tarpe and waited till dusk before we hit an early night-in.
          Day195 (Fraser Island Day5) 
Low tide: (05:34 - 09:34)(19:41 - 23:41)
Waking up to different kinds of birds all singing their song, at 08:21 we left Kauri campsite and drove to Lake Mckenzie.
08:55 - 332km Arrived at Boorangoora (Lake Mckenzie). Walking 140m, we arrived to a wonderful clear lake, and had the joy to say we experienced the first view of the Lake just the two of us. A few minutes later, people started coming, and from then on, the lake was filled with people's joyous shouts and playing. Snorkelling around the lake and seeing many fresh water turtles, we enjoyed the late morning at the lake, taking in the hot sun rays and a minimal breeze. 12:42 Departing from paradise, we made our way South. Reaching Central Station (now drizzling), we caught the Southern Lakes Scenic Drive at 13:18 (341km).
13:40 - 348km Lake Birrabeen. Another lovely clear lake, and brisking along the shore. 
Seeing Lake Benaroon just by driving past, at 14:18 (359km) we stopped at Lake Boomanjin.
15:19 - 369km Back onto the Eastern Beach! 1km then drove inland to access Govi Camping site. After we parked the car on a hill overlooking the beach, we took out the table and started cooking right opposite the ocean, watching the tide slowly getting lower. Eating Fussilli in Carbonara, we enjoyed watching the sun set from the beach, dipping feet in fresh water, and by 18:15 we tucked ourselves in bed once the darkness took over.
          Day196 (Fraser Island Day6) 
Low tide: (06:43 - 10:43)(20:47 - 00:47)
Watching the sun rise from the car, at 07:08 we left towards Labe Wabby.
07:24 - 385km - Arrived at the start of Lake Wabby trek. Seeing nowhere to park safely and once it hits high tide we are stuck here till tomorrow, we decided to access the lake through inland tracks. 
08:02 - 387km Entered through Cornwells and caught Central Lakes Scenic Drive once again. 
08:27 - 395km Parked for Lake Wabby. Seeing a small goanna and a couple of lizards along the way, we walked downhill and onto Hammerstone Sandhill to arrive 30mins later next to an emerald green lake. Sun blazing hot, we took a dip and sunbathed till around 10.35. Walking back the steep uphill, we continued our drive at 11:27.
11:58 - 404km Caught road leading to Lake McKenzie, diverted Scenic Drive.
12:23 - 412km Arrived at Lake McKenzie. Less people today, we enjoyed swimming with the scorching 25degrees sun and cloudless sky till 14:40. Driving out to Eurong, we passed through Brush Box Forest, where sunrays do not touch soil, trees stand majestic and tall, and many unfortunate huge trunks fallen - all covered in moss and vines, untouched by humans, but just naturally wild and savage. 
15:50 - Arrived Eurong. Second tarmac road we came across, we walked in the bakehouse and bought an iced donut for $3.50. 430km, we drove out on the eastern beach finding a huge creek merging with the high tide! After waiting a few minutes we found the right opportunity and continued our way down to Govi. Finding the same spot as yesterday, at 16:14 (439km) we parked the car and started cooking.
After eating Penne with Four Cheeses and the donut around 16:45, we started getting ready and once the dark took over, we went to bed enjoying the fresh sea breeze and last night sleeping on the biggest sand island in the world!
          Day197 
Low tide: (08:00 - 12:00)
Waking up at 05:20, and watching the last sunrise on Fraser Island, at 06:52 we made our way for a small drive to Eurong. By 07:27 - 448km we made our way to the ferry to depart - Seeing many white-bellied Sea Eagles and Pied Oyster Catchers along the way. 
08:09 - 485km - Waiting to catch the Manta Ray Barge back to the mainland. A few seconds before driving onto the ferry, we saw a few dolphins a few metres away, and a couple very close to the shore! 
08:27 - 08:33 Boarded the ferry and back to mainland! Inflating the tyres back to 38psi and cleaning some of the sand out of the car, at 09:10 we made our way to the Info Point at Rainbow Beach to obtain two maps and went to wash the car underbody at '4wd Complete Car wash' to remove the sand and sea salt. Refilling water at Lawrie Hanson Park, at 10:35 we set the GPS to Maryborough! Arriving at 11:45, homeplace to Helen Lyndon Goff (known as PL Travers author of Mary Poppins), we came across an erected statue of the famous nanny, her birthplace and the street full of book quotes. Not much to do here, we caught a 35km road up to Hervey Bay, now 26degrees. Stopping at Hungry Jacks to refresh ourselves with a $2 Cookies and Cream Storm, at 13:50 we stopped by at Aldi, Fresh Produce Market and Coles to top up on some food.
Driving a few kms, we arrived at Pialba in Hervey Bay and stopped at The Pines - Sandy White Memorial Park. Cooking some Fettucine with Bacon and vegetables in Carbonara, we decided there was nothing much to see here and hit the road towards North. Cleaning out the car and bed from all the sand it had, around 17:20 we drove 72km along the Bruce Highway towards Apple Tree Creek, fuelling up on the way. At 18:30 we arrived at the destinaton and after managing to find a parking spot, we crawled in bed, half sunburnt, with frogs croaking on one side and heavy metal music playing on the other side from a near-by parked truck.

Statistics for the Chapter

(per person)

Nights/ Accomodation   $35.70
Vehicles/ Servicing          $0
Petrol                                  $85.65
Others/Food                      $119.65

               Income    $0

Per Day Per Person
      as at 25/08/2015      
   197days

(no income calculated)       $52.64

(income calculated)             $19.81

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